Winter on the McKenzie

We had the forest to ourselves, Pip and me. And Pip isn’t the talkative sort. Sniffing is more his game. So except for the occasional thunder of paws through the mud, only the stillness kept me company.
The McKenzie River Trail has avid fans far and wide, but they were all otherwise occupied today. Mountain biking starts in the spring and continues through summer and on into the vibrant months of autumn, as does hiking and fishing. But winter heralds quieter days.
Those of us who visit the drippy side of the state, owe thanks to the Valley People of Oregon for putting up with the rain, day in and day out, so that we can drop in and experience the lush, dense forests that only 51 inches of precipitation per year can create.
While other recreationalists choose snow sports this time of year, if you’re willing to put on your layers and waterproof boots, you will find a quiet beauty that no other time of year affords.
Starting from Santiam pass and working our way west, we explored fantastic places to hike, eat, sleep and pause ... just to take it all in. Here are the highlights:

Sahalie and Koosah Falls: Though the parking lot was closed from recent snowfall, by the first of April the sun will take care of that problem and the snowmelt with bring new heights of drama to this and nearby Koosah Falls. Hike down, down, down to the bottom and you’ll hook up to the McKenzie River Trail, sweet single track that runs the length of 26 miles through a lush and teeming forest.
Tamolich Dry Falls: This waterfall on the McKenzie is known more frequently as the “Blue Pool,” because time and minerals have worn an ultra-cold, stunning, aquamarine pool below the rising cliff. Tamolich a dry falls most of the year, and I’ve only seen water coming over the top once in all the years I’ve visited it. The trailhead to this pool is off the Bridge Trail Campground exit (FS 730) from Highway 126. Turning right past the power plant (sort of creepy) a dirt road leads you to the trailhead. Tamolich Dry Falls is a two-mile trek through the snow and mud this time of year. Gird your loins and go soon, though, because when summer comes you’ll be sharing this fantastic trail with a gaggle of mountain bikers and hikers from all over the planet. Tamolich photo courtesy of Visit McKenzie River.
Belknap Hot Springs: This is a perfect place to go during the winter because it’s so quiet and rejuvenating. The mineral hot springs percolate to the surface from deep under the earth’s crust, creating a hot and steamy pool to relax in, while winter – and the river – rage past you.
Pip and I tool a short stroll across the footbridge and through the forest to the Secret Garden, which always makes me think of the backyard of an ancient Roman villa. Belknap offers lodge rooms, cabins, RV hookups and tent sites. The lodge has a snack and gift shop. You’ll find dining, as well as a market and gas station, approximately nine miles west at Harbick’s Country Store, Takoda’s and the Rustic Skillet.
Rainbow: Further west we stopped in Rainbow, a mile off Highway 126. Just a short drive over the very cool covered bridge, we found the King Castle Trailhead. This starts an 11-mile hike, mostly uphill, where the heartiest of hikers (and more often mountain bikers, when the weather allows) are gifted with sweeping views of the McKenzie River Valley at the top.
The sun had busted through the clouds for about an hour, but Rainbow didn’t get its name from being in a banana belt, and the rains came with the afternoon and took up residence for the rest of the evening. Lodging we like in Rainbow is right on the McKenzie River and includes McKenzie Riverside Cottages and Holiday Farm Resort. Holiday Farm also has a fine dining establishment and a lively bar called the Rainbow's End Lounge. For those who need a little rejuvenation with their vacation, they also have Spa H.

Blue River: Undaunted by the rain, we skipped on downstream to the tiny little burg of Blue River, where we passed the night at pet-friendly McKenzie River Mountain Resort. Before I nestled into my very-cool-cabin-by-the-river, owner Chris LaVoie showed me a super-secret trailhead to Lucky Boy Mine Trail. Which really isn’t a secret – Chris shuttles mountain bikers to and from the trail all season long – except that not very many people know about it, and it’s unmarked and out of the way. A quick lace-up of the boots and we’re off. While we only strolled a short portion of the trail due to the lateness of the hour, on brighter days one can hike, or bike, any or all of the 27 miles of this trail, which follows a gorgeous creek past a hidden gold mine with a cooling-off spot called the “Cliff of Insanity.” Lavoei’s shuttle will take you and your mountain bike to the top, though, and you can enjoy 90% those miles going downhill.
The cabin we are staying in is a restored 1930s ranger station with a bedroom, bathroom, kitchen, living room, fireplace and breakfast nook on the first floor and a cozy second floor with two more beds. The cabin sits near Blue River and harkens to quieter days, which is just perfect for this kind of “shoulder season” trip. By now our day is winding down and the tasks ahead focus on eating, lighting a fire, and relaxing. Simple enough.
Map: Eugene, Cascades & Coast visitors association has created a nice Google Map to the area, with points of interest, that you can like to here.