Secrets and Solitude

By Kyla Merwin Cheney - Posted on 08 March 2011

Belknap and Beyond

Pip at the Tamolich TrailheadI’m grateful to the good Oregon Valley People who put up with something like 51 inches a rain every year so that travelers can enjoy the lush, dense drippy forests of Douglas Fir and Cedar trees, ferns and moss. While many adventurists opt for snow sports this time of year, I can recommend a calmer, quieter way to breath in the great outdoors and get your nature fix. But you have to layer up and wear your rain boots.
Head to the McKenzie River Valley and you just might have the forest trails all to yourself this time of year, especially if you go mid-week. While some folks are riding out the weather until the trails dry up, or clicking through reruns from their perch on the sofa, hearty Road Trippers are not daunted by the rain. In fact, with the rain typically comes a delightful absence of ice, cold and wind.
I enjoyed one of my favorite days on the McKenzie River last week, just me and the dog, running amuck and soaking up the damp smells of earth and air and solitude.

First Stop: McKenzie River Trail
Popular stops Sahalie and Koosah Falls were snowed in so we headed to lower lands and took Forest Road #730 off highway 126 (Bridge Trail Campground exit) to catch a trail of a different sort. This path takes you two miles into Tamolich Falls and one of the most beautiful and (I say) magical places in Oregon, known amongst locals as the Blue Pool. Time and minerals have worn a deep, cold, aqua-blue pool at the base of the falls that is simply breathtaking when you stumble upon it. To find the trailhead, turn right at the (sort of creepy) power plant and follow the dirt road about a half-mile. You’ll see a hiking sign and wide spot in the road to park on the right. Take the trail upstream, right, through the forest and along the lava rocks as you follow the river ever receding below your feet. Go. Whatever it takes, before you leave Oregon, go to this place. And be happy that it’s not a well-kept secret anymore.

A Hot Soak
Now that you’ve had your hike four-mile round-trip hike, it’s time for your mineral soak. You’re likely to be a bit chilled and Belknap Hot Springs is only about 11 miles down the road. You can soak in the wonderful mineral pool that overlooks the McKenzie River for an hourly fee. If you rent an overnight room, cabin, RV or tent site, you’ll have free access to a guests-only pool. Aaaah! (Photo courtesy of Trip Advisor)

Sustenance
By now you must be hungry and if you haven’t packed provisions, you’ll find two restaurants about nine miles west, toward Eugene, past the little burg of McKenzie Bridge: Takoda’s and Rustic Skillet. At Takoda’s we always enjoy the generous salad bar and at the Rustic Skillet we heartily recommend the pie. If you want to venture off the highway, nearby Rainbow has lodging right on the river at McKenzie Riverside Cottages and Holiday Farm Resort, as well as a fine dining establishment and the Rainbow’s End Lounge.

The Secret Garden
Whether you are staying at Belknap or just passing by, you must must must stop and visit their Secret Garden. Even in the winter this forested place is will enchant you. Just a short stroll across the river from the lodge and down a magnificent winding path, you’ll discover a place out of time. Popular for weddings in the summer, it’s deserted in the winter, but water still flows through aqueducts and over stone falls. Bundle up and spend a few quiet minutes with the good company of your own thoughts and dreams while you’re here. Maybe a penny in the fountain will help your wishes come true.