I took a road trip with my honey last week to the Oregon coast, where the shortest river in the world, the D, meets the ocean. This was not a "roughing it" sort of road trip. Staying at Shalishan Spa & Golf Resort is more like the "lap of luxury" sort of trip. In all fairness, two weeks ago I woke up in a pup tent in the forest. Variety, they say, is the spice of life. And I believe it.
Evening: So we rolled into the resort just in time for a quick challenge in the 18-hole putting course. It was so peaceful, just my husband and me, the light soft and warm, two free days to look forward to, and a thorough putt butt-kicking. Mike thumped me by nine strokes. Nothing to do but head to the lounge, which overlooks the battlefield, and plan my revenge.
Morning: One of the greatest inventions of all time, besides the bobby pin, is the gas fireplace. Our room looked over the bay, and it was a quiet morning, so it was easy to sleep in, lounge around and read books. Meanwhile the fireplace warmed us up and added a cozy element to our little hovel with a view.
Lunch: A quick jog along a nearby footpath and around the neighborhood cranked up my appetite. Lincoln City is only 10 minutes north on Highway 101 so we jetted up there for clam chowder at Mo’s. This popular restaurant sits right on the estuary where the Siletz River runs into the ocean. It’s absolutely beautiful. And packed with people. But they churn and burn at Moe’s we were seated, fed, and outta there lickety split, with plenty of time to make our afternoon tee time back at Salishan.
Golf: Salishan sports a beautiful 18-hole golf course. The front nine skirts the Pacific Ocean and the back nine winds through old growth forest. It is absolutely stunning. Mike and I bought extra balls and arranged a time when we could golf the back nine as a twosome – being the happy hacks that we are. I love the play of light and shape on a golf course, the neatly coiffed greens, the tricky sand traps, and the fairways stretching out in the distance – triggering delusions of grandeur that I can actually conquer its length. We threw away our score cards and ignored lost balls. It’s better for us that way.
Dinner: We considered our options for dining: Salishan has a four-star restaurant and it was just a short stroll to the lodge. About ten miles south of Shalishan, in Depoe Bay, Tidal Raves Seafood Grill serves great cuisine and a stunning ocean view. Hmmm … we decided to decide later. In the mean time, we opted for a snack and a nap in our room. When we rallied for dinner, we headed to Depot Bay for seafood. Driving south, however, we spotted a tiny little Italian restaurant on the side of the highway. Our adventure instincts kicked in.
At the Italian Riviera Restaurant & Piano Bar, a tiny woman about 112 years old, was counting her receipts of the day. We were the last customers in the place, enjoying small plates of pasta and a quiet dinner for two.
The Ocean: The next morning we took a long walk along the ocean shore. Vacationing mid-week, especially during the summer, offers an ease and comfort that populated weekend trips can’t match. Add to that, we were enjoying one of the warmest, most still and sunny days we’d ever experienced on a beach north of Southern California. There is a sweet little nature trail that leads from the Salishan Spa area to the beach, through shadowing trees and ferns along the edge of the bay.
Other Recreational Pursuits:
Beachcombing yields many treasures of the kind you can take home and dust and the kind you can anchor inside, including Japanese glass floats, clams and crabs, tide pool creatures and the joys of kite flying and whale watching. More here.
For great hiking, head four miles north of Lincoln City to the Cascade Head National Scenic and Research Area. Just off Three Rocks Road, you’ll find three major hiking paths: The Nature Conservancy Interpretive Trail, the Cascade Head Trail and the Hart's Cove Trail.
Explore red-tailed hawks, bald eagles, great blue heron, egrets and other waterfowl at the Siletz Bay National Wildlife Refuge.
Side note: The Summer issue of Oregon Lakes & Rivers online magazine features over 40 pages of images and highlights of Oregon’s National Wildlife Refuges, including Siletz Bay and the other refuges in the coastal region. Link here.
Devil’s Lake boasts the only Oregon coast campground located in the midst of a city, Lincoln City to be precise. To do: boat, water and jet ski, swim, and kayak.
Get fresh produce Wednesday through Sunday at the Barking Dog Farm.
Make your own glass float at the Jennifer L. Sears Glass Art Studio.
Take a guided moonlight kayaking trip on calm waters.
Link here for other things to do in the Lincoln City area.
